Performed 2 system cooling maintenance. I checked amps, capacitors, filters, electrical, drains, safeties, cleanliness, temperature split, and ducts. The systems are both cooling great. However, the ducts has had some major damage caused by critters. The supply plenum has been eaten through by approximately 80%. There are multiple ducts that have had their insulation eaten exposing the inner liner. There are ducts that have had the inner liner punctured and deemed not repairable. I provided pricing to patch what we can with a roll of insulation and flex tape, replace a 5” and 9” duct on the upstairs unit, and replace the plenum on the upstairs unit.

Upon arrival client stated that the unit was not cooling. We proceeded to the thermostat to turn on the unit. We noticed that the indoor blower motor was not coming on. We checked the outside unit and the compressor and fan were running as they should. We checked the inside blower fan motor voltage on the high and low side of the plugs. The voltage readings for high and low voltage were reading within range but when plugged into the motor, the motor would not start. We determined the blower motor was bad and needed a replacement. Verified that the unit was not under warranty. Offered replacement estimate to the client. Client elected to go forward with the repair. Upon departure we left the downstairs unit off until blower motor is replaced. Motor is ordered with the manufacture should be available for pickup to tomorrow. Will call and communicate with homeowner to schedule replacement.

Performed a 2 system spring maintenance ( gas). Tasks performed. 1. Visually inspected condenser coil for debris/ dirty. 2. Inspected condenser fan motor. 3. Inspected condenser fan blades. 4. Inspected/ cleaned wiring connections. 5. Tested compressor/ condenser fan motor capacitor,,noticed both units don’t have any surge protection,, recommended to install them . 6. Checked refrigerant pressures. 7. Checked compressor amp draw. 8. Checked condenser fan motor amp draw. 9. Inspected / replaced return filter. 10. Inspected return plenum for debris/ dirty. 11. Inspected evaporator coil. 12. Inspected blower motor/ blower wheel. 13. Checked blower amp draw. 14. Measured temperature differential . 15. Inspected drain lines,,,both units are draining underneath the sink on the upstairs bathroom,,, found it extremely clogged up, line was cleared/ treated and tested today. 16. Washed condenser unit. Found no more issues, units are working properly at this time.

Performed single system cooling maintenance. The system is from 2016. It has a rheem airhandler (2016) and Amana heat pump(2016). I checked amps, capacitor, filter, electrical, drains, safeties, and washed the outdoor unit. The system is cooling to manufacture specifications. I observed the 45/5 capacitor for the outdoor unit is starting to read low on the compressor side. This part is used to start the components on the outdoor unit.

Customer stated that one of the units wasn’t working ( condenser coil is hanging against the wall going out trough the back door , indoor unit is going from the front door down the back door first hallway on the left and then the second office on the right),,, that the thermostat was blank. Started diagnostic at the indoor unit , found it tripped on overflow switch,, emergency drain pan was full of water, main drain line was cleared, after troubleshooting we measured temperature differential in cooling mode, had 16 degrees split differential ( not meeting manufacturer specifications), proceeded to do a leak search,,, during this process we found an extremely dirty evaporator coil, blower motor and blower wheel, we would have to remove the coil for a deep cleaning, and a blower cleaning as well, noticed evaporator coil would freeze up in minutes, highly believe there might be a refrigerant leak , unit is from 2008 and it’s running with R-22 refrigerant ( no longer made),,, base on dia

Arrived to our clients home for a single system cooling maintenance inspection. I began on the outdoor unit checking and testing all the electrical components. Everything passed inspection today. I did also wash the outdoor unit and showed Liszt before and after pictures. I then went inside. Initially our client expressed an inconvenience with replacing her air filter. I found the ptrap for the drain line to be blocking the air filter cabinet. As a courtesy today I cut and plumbed the ptrap to avoid the filter cabinet door and make it easy for her to replace her filters. We also discussed how the condensate pump was not replaced and do often fail after a few years. The unit is cooling properly on departure.

Returned to home to install new replacement drain pan for main downstairs unit. Once installed and leveled I spoke with our client regarding the primary drain line and adding a second blow out service valve. She elected to install it today and also provided white vinegar to help flush and clear the line. I did ensure it was clear and showed our client a video and pictures of the primary drain line and where it leads to. She did mention that they have had repeated issues with the sink clogging in the past.

-Contactor- switch to turn on condenser -Turbo Multi Use Capacitor - to assist in normal running operation of the compresser and motor - 5-2-1 Hard Start Kit - to ease startup wear and tear on the compressor We replaced the component and tested the system. Everything was testing within range. 21 degree supply return split. Washed the outdoor unit as a courtesy.

Performed heating maintenance on straight electric systems. I examined cleanliness, operations, drains, electrical, and change the batteries in the sensors. The system are heating good but 2 of them are in need of cleaning. Recommendations 1. It is recommended to insert some drain treatment into these systems to help against the drains clogging during cooling season. 2. The system in exam room C is full of build up in the blower and evaporator coil. It needs cleaning to promote healthier air and restore efficiency. Dust build up puts added strain and reduces the efficiency of the system. 3. The unit in the break room area has exessive build up in the evaporator coil. This causes strain and reduced efficiency. Dust can reduces the life expectancy of the system by years by causing harm to the evaporator coil, blower, and compressor.

The current primary drain line on the exterior of the house. Is not properly insulated insecure to the house. ————————————————————- Recommendations. 1. Exterior of the house replaced the PVC. 2. Rebuild the PVC drain lines on the exterior of the house secured. 3. PVC three-quarter inch install to the French drain outside existing put pipe at least 2 inches inside the French drain. 4. The PVC will have UV rating armor flex on the exterior of the house. To give it insulation covered so it doesn’t freeze up in cold winter times. 5. Once PVC is totally installed will test run the drain lines to make sure drainage is good. Will pour several gallons of water down the primary drain line.

Cesar and I performed a 5 system heating maintenance. We checked amps, sequence of operation, electrical, drains, cleanliness, filters, and safeties. The systems are performing to manufacture specifications. We have some recommendations involving cleanliness and air quality. Recommendations 1. The master bedroom has a reasonable amount of dust in the ducts. We recommend a duct cleaning be performed on it alone. 2. We advise that an ionizer be installed in the master bedroom unit to assist the filter. The filter is only designed to catch approximately 33% of the contamination in the home. The ionizer allows for better clumping of the smaller particles so the filter can catch it. 3. We recommend adding an air scrubber to the downstairs main unit. This will treat the air in a similar way as the ionizer but it has a u/v light, also.

I found the outdoor unit completely frozen over. All of the ice is after the outdoor TXV. The system will not go into defrost and stated in previous visits this is an ongoing issue. The thermistor ohmed bad. I requested pricing for a thermistor (temperature sensor) and defrost board. I could not figure out how to get the system into emergency heat.

Arrived for single system maintenance. Cleaned and tested flame sensor. Cleaned and tested inducer hose. Noticed blower was dirty and in need of cleaning. Recommend blower cleaning. Customer was interested in going forward with a blower cleaning. Proceeded to clean blower wheel, housing and motor. Noticed a bit of oil coming out of the motor. Run amps on inducer and motor were within ranges. Once cleaned tested unit. Unit working properly on departure.

I found the system not cycling the blower on during heating. I notice the lights on the control board are weak. The system began to work and I couldn’t finish my diagnosis. The system would turn on the blower to purge once it got too hot. I suspect the control board inside of the furnace is failing, but I couldn’t not verify before it fixed itself.

I arrived for a 3 system heat maintenance inspection. Our client provided air filters to be replaced today. I proceeded to clean the flame sensors, pressure switch ports and furnace cabinets for all 3 units. I found the main upstairs and main downstairs units to have very dirty blower motors with dust accumulated on them. But all motors did test within manufacture specifications. I also tested and ensured all fire shutoffs were working properly. All tested passed todays inspection. The main downstairs unit had a compromised drain pan that should be replaced to prevent water damage in the ceiling of the home. I showed this to our client and she agreed it had been leaking water on the exterior of the home. We also discussed adding air purification to our clients units. We discussed bundling the air scrubbers for all 3 units in the home. All units are running properly on departure.

Performed two system heating maintenance. I checked amps, capacitors, filters, electrical, cleanliness, drains, and safeties. Systems are heating to manufacture specifications. Recommendations 1. The down stairs system isn’t sealed on the the return side. This can cause the system to pull in attic air resulting is a dirtier system. 2. The downstairs system has a duct on the backside that is coming loose and may start to heat/cool the attic. 3. The upstairs system’s blower motor is getting matted with dust. This makes the blower work harder to operate and can result in premature failure. 4. Both systems need duct cleaning due to high dust content that will begin to get stuck to the vital parts of the system and cause failures. Examples: blower motor and evaporator coil. 5. Both systems could use drain treatment to prepare them for cooling season.

Returned to club house to remove and install new thermostat for the gym. Zack was unable to locate keys to open the lock box around the thermostat. He still allowed me to remove the box and proceed forward with the work. Once completed I turned the unit on and ensured it was running properly. I left the unit running to reach the 72° set point. Zack would address the lock box. Unit running properly on departure.

Replacement of thermostat experiencing intermittent issue of rebooting randomly. Replaced thermostat and tested to ensure proper functions. While measuring airflow I found the gym thermostat to also be in the setup screen the same reset screen that was happening to the current thermostat that we replaced. I brought this up to Zack and let him know I would be sending another estimate for the gym replacement thermostat before it became an issue.

Found thermostat to no have been programmed after repair was completed. Secured door switch and programmed thermostat unit heating on departure

I arrived at our clients home to correct the slope on the pvc exhaust pipe of the furnace. Once corrected I placed the thermostat into test mode and let the unit heat the master bedroom for more than 20 min without any errors or issues. I took temperatures from the vents using my temp gun and the supply air was reaching 101°. The unit is operating properly on departure.

Upon arrival, we noticed the system was off due to trouble code on the furnace. The system was off due to an open pressure switch. After we reset the system we noticed a gurgling sound in the flue pipe due to a build up of condensation. Once we detached the flue pipe from the unit we noticed that the furnace operated normally. The flue pipe coming from the furnace doesn't have the proper pitch result in condensation build in the flue pipe. We must return and make proper modifications to ensure the system will operate to specs. Homeowners have been briefed on the current status and assured we will return the next day to make modifications.

Quarterly maintenance on 3 split systems

6” duct replacement from y branch off in attic. 10’ run. 6x4” 3 way supply grill

Found inducer motor drain leaking and the hose being secured by electrical tape. Rebuild the section of drain for the inducer motor and secured it with a panduit strap. I cycled the system for 15mins to ensure it wasn’t going to leak out. Inducer drain is no longer leaking.

Performed 3 system heating maintenance. Checked amps, capacitors, filters, electrical, safeties, and drains. Systems are straight electric. Recommend condensate drains to have treatment to help against clogging. Also, we recommend replacing weak capacitor that is reading 4.3/5. The reading is under the recommended rating and we can not guarantee that it will continue to start the components.