Denison TX Heating And Air Conditioning

Arrive for 2 system AC maintenance. Checked filters, customer replaced them on his own. Set thermostats to cool and checked temperature drop across systems, both are achieving 19-20° difference. Checked operation of drain lines, they are clear and we treated both of them with drain solution. Next, went outside to condensers. Checked amp draw on compressors and fan motors. Starting amp draw on compressor for main house is above manufacturer limits and can lead to premature breakdowns. Recommend installing hard start kit to bring down the starting amps and prolong the life of the compressor. Both capacitors and contactors are good. Cleaned condenser coils using water. Both systems are cooling at this time.

Connected mantis tool to inverter board as directed by the instructions. Updated automatically loaded onto the board. Solid yellow light showed that update was installed successfully. Tested system after and system is cooling at this time.

No cool on single system. Customer stated that it was blowing out hot air as if it was in heating mode. Checked fault codes on thermostat and getting error 184.10 meaning Switch over valve is in incorrect position. After speaking with tech support, learned that it is a common problem with this unit and it just needs an update on the inverter drive outside. Office is looking into part for update. System is cooling at this time. Explained how to reset system in case it happens again before we come back out.

Return to the homeowners residence to install a replacement condenser fan motor. Removed the failed motor and installed the new condenser fan motor. Tested the HVAC system after installation and verified that the system is operating properly at this time. Also tested the primary drain line and verified that it is clear and draining properly.

Upon arrival which system and cooling mode and set the temperature down, I noticed that the indoor blower came on, so I went outside to check the condenser. I found condenser not running, so I checked the start capacitor, and the capacitor was good. When I reinstalled the start capacitor and turn the power back on at the disconnect, the compressor came on and the fan tried to come on, but is making a lot of noise. The fan will not spin. The fan motor on the condenser is seized up. I then got into the attic to check the drain line and drain line is clear. I left power off outside at the condenser. Homeowner may use thermostat and indoor unit for air circulation, but needs to keep the power turned off at the outdoor unit. We will need to schedule an install date for this fan motor.

No cool on single system. Customer stated that condenser sounded like it was running but the fan was not spinning. Checked capacitor and it had failed. Replaced capacitor under parts and labor warranty. Checked out system after repair. Measured amp draw on compressor and fan motor. System is cooling at this time.

Upon arrival, I found that the drain line was clogged, possibly causing the float switch to periodically trip. Tested and draws on blower, everything checked out good. Tested system several times and system is running properly at this time. Cleared drain line and tested drain. Drain line is clear.

Upon arrival I found the primary drain line was clogged, causing float switch to trip. I cleared drain line and restored power to system. System is running properly at this time.

Replaced blower motor under parts warranty. Tested system after repair. Previous fault code went away and system started cooling. Condenser coil was very dirty and blocking the airflow through the coils. Cleaned condenser using water only. Return air 84° supply 65°. System is cooling at this time.

No cool on single system. Getting 179 fault code at thermostat. Indoor control board was displaying E2.2 meaning blower motor is not communicating with board. Blower motor has failed and needs to be replaced. Office will order part.

Upon arrival I found the outdoor unit was not running. I tested capacitor and found that capacitor was completely dead. Tested drain line drain line was clear. Air filters were clean. Replaced warranty start capacitor. Tested system. System is running properly at this time.

Found that outdoor unit was not coming on because it was not getting 24 V. Upon further investigation, I found that a thermostat was bad whenever I wired wire together at the thermostat system came on. Left an estimate to replace thermostat to homeowner. Homeowner is going to hold off for now. Also found that compressor was pulling way too many amps due to condenser being extremely restricted with debris highly recommend a condenser cleaning.

Upon arrival I found that system was cooling thermostat was set at 83° degrees room temperature temperature was 83°. I turned system on cooling mode and went into attic to observe system. Drains were draining drain line was not clogged and I replaced air filter. I checked return and supply temperatures return temperature was 72° supply temperature was 51°. I did put my gauges on the outdoor unit to check refrigerant levels and found that system was cooling properly with a 8° sub cool. System is cooling properly at this time.

Customer had issues with system keeping up with thermostat. Thought it was the refrigerant pressures. Checked pressures and they were at a good level, 53° coil temp so it was not under charged. There is only a 15x15 grill for the return. This is not enough air and system is unable to breathe properly. The addition on the other side of the house does not have any return vents so air is stagnant and feels hot. Customer is going to try to cut another return or run a return duct to other side of house. This is preventing system from cooling the house.

Upon arrival, I found that the system was running, just not efficiently. System was only cooling the air 6°. Return register was pulling in 84° air and supply register was putting out 78° air. Upon further investigation, I found that none of the air filters have been changed in a very long time and return cavities and return Plenum was very dirty. I opened up air handler and found that the evaporator coil was dirty, not allowing proper airflow across coil. Blower housing was also dirty, causing air restrictions. The outdoor condenser was very restricted with debris and needs a thorough chemical cleaning. I also noticed that the air handler was no longer level due to support coming loose and screws had pulled out. I highly recommend a full system equipment cleaning, a duct cleaning and re-leveling the air handler. It is very important to get your system cleaned so that it can run at its peak performance and efficiency. Due to airflow restrictions the system is starved of airflow and the

Upon arrival I found that thermostat was blank. Thermostat did have 24 V between R and C in terminals. I checked drains drains were not clogged float. Switch was not tripped. I took thermostat off of back plate and connected R,G, and Y and system turned to cooling mode and was running properly. Homeowner opted to have thermostat replaced. I left estimate for condenser cleaning. Condenser was very dirty and as in need of a cleaning. Replaced thermostat and tested system. System is running properly at this time.

Upon arrival, I discovered the outdoor unit completely empty of R22 refrigerant. I heard a hissing noise outside and found that the compressor wires had caused a hole. With it being R22, I spoke about replacement. Client opted to pay the service fee only and may reach back out in the coming days. System is an above the tub furdown unit.

Need to clean up the wire with burnt up pull back clean up strip back Replacing the whip from the disconnect to the unit Scope of Work – Condensate Drain Line Cleaning Upon inspection, the condensate drain line was found to be clogged, preventing proper condensate drainage. The safety float switch is shutting the system down to protect the equipment from potential water overflow and damage, causing the outdoor condensing unit to turn off. Our service will include: • Purging the condensate drain line to remove the blockage. • Flushing the drain line thoroughly to restore proper drainage. • Verifying the condensate flows freely through the drain system. • Testing the condensate safety float switch to ensure it is operating correctly. • Running the HVAC system through a complete operational test to verify normal system operation after the drain line has been cleared. Once the condensate drain line has been properly cleaned and flushed, the system should operate normally, allowing

Blower assembly pull and clean + horizontal coil cleaning + washable metal filter Here’s a professional service summary you can place in your work order: Service Summary Performed a complete cleaning and restoration of the indoor air handler due to excessive dirt and debris buildup affecting system performance. • Removed and disassembled the blower assembly. • Separated the blower wheel (squirrel cage) from the blower motor for a thorough cleaning. • Washed, sanitized, and cleaned all blower components before reassembling the assembly. • Cleaned the evaporator coil in place using a jetter and approved coil cleaning solution. The coil was heavily impacted with dirt and debris, especially throughout the center of the coil, which was significantly restricting airflow. • Thoroughly flushed the evaporator coil to remove all loosened contaminants and ensure proper drainage. • Installed a new washable air filter. After completing the cleaning, the system was tested and returned to

Arrived at customer’s home to evaluate system drainage concerns. Found the condensate drain line to be clogged, preventing proper drainage. The condensate drain line is designed to remove moisture and condensation produced by the air conditioning system during operation and safely drain it away from the equipment. Cleared the drain obstruction and verified the system is now draining properly. Inspected the system and found the evaporator coil was frozen, indicating a possible refrigerant-related issue. Checked the air filter and confirmed it is not causing an airflow restriction. The system will need to fully thaw before a complete leak search can be performed. Pricing for the recommended leak search will be emailed over for customer review. Additionally, found the system is missing an SS1 float safety switch, which is recommended to help prevent potential water damage in the event of future drain issues. The SS1 switch monitors the drain system and will shut the equipment off if wat

Arrived on site, found blower motor not running. Tested high voltage to motor and found 120v. Tested control voltage and found 24 being supplied to the fan. This confirms the blower control module is not working. Motor must be replaced to address this. Upon further inspection I found that the pressures were low at about 200 standing pressure. This indicates there is a leak in the system. Advised homeowner that i would have to charge them to find the leak, but 9/10 it’s in the evaporator coil and that I didn’t not see any obvious leaks outside. Advised system replacement as motor and coil cost is most of the way to a new system, and with the age of the system I can’t make any guarantees about the rest of the system if repairs were to be completed. Set up comfort advisor visit for Wednesday after 3:30. System shut off at outdoor breaker to prevent damage to the compressor.

Reverified bad capacitor and found 40/45 mfd. Replaced capacitor and dated it. Photos uploaded and tested system to ensure good functionality.

1. Visually inspected condenser coil for leaks and abnormalities. 2. Inspected condenser fan motor, blades and bearings. 3. Inspected, cleaned, and, tightened wiring connections. 4. Measured capacitance of compressor/fan motor capacitor. 5. Inspected and measured resistance of contactor 6. Measured compressor current draw. 7. Measured condenser fan motor amp draw. 8. Inspected and replaced return filter. 9. Inspected return plenum for dust or debris. 10. Inspected evaporator coil for cleanliness and oxidation. 11. Inspected blower motor/ blower wheel for dust and debris 12. Measured blower motor current draw. 13. Measured temperature differential from supply to return. 20 degrees measured. 14. Tested drain lines for proper drainage and treated to prevent blockages. 15. Rinsed condenser with water to promote heat exchange and reduce stress on system by removing dust and debris. Found failing capacitor no longer under warranty as of 03/00/26. Advised homeowner the capacitor that helps

I returned to install a blower control board. I tested the system after to ensure proper operation. System is cooling upon departure.

Upon arrival, I found the blower not turning off. Customer stated they smelled a burnt smell from the unit. I opened the unit to find a relay had burnt causing constant voltage to the blower. To fix this, we will need to get a blower control board. The part is under warranty, on order, and scheduled for 6/22 3pm to 5pm.